Located in
the hustle and bustle of Venice, Gjelina
is a beautiful restaurant and serves up delicious American Nouveau fare. The
space is enormous, with the main dining room that includes two communal tables,
a charming outside patio with a fire pit for those chilly winter nights, and
smaller semi-private rooms, lit by a wine bottle chandelier. The wooden walls
and ceilings in the dining rooms add an air of warmth to the space, and the
floor to ceiling wine shelves show off the restaurant’s arsenal of wine. [1]
For the
last five years, chef Travis Lett, has helped steer the success that is
Gjelina: a constant swirl of diners who spill onto the Abbot Kinney Boulevard
sidewalk waiting for a turn to eat in the open-all-day, brick-floored,
Edison-bulb-accented restaurant. They come for his thin-crusted pizzas from the
wood-burning oven, straight-from-the-farm vegetables such as roasted okra or
grilled kale, and plates of rustic chickpea stew or stuffed eggplant or pork
meatballs ; food that's seemingly simple but made exactingly. At the heart of
Gjelina is a kitchen staff that has grown from about 10 to nearly 50 people,
cranking out a menu of several dozen dishes for which they make each component
down to the crème fraîche and grainy mustard: ricotta, sauerkraut, knife-cut
buckwheat pasta, guanciale, merguez sausage.... It takes three days to make the
pizza, starting with the dough's pre-ferment. On any given Saturday, from
morning to night, 1,000 people will have filled the 100-seat restaurant. The
Gjelina Take Away (or GTA), is a next-door annex that has Lett baking breads,
jarring pickles and curing meats for what he envisions as a neighborhood deli
selling "everyday stuff" ; pizza, antipasti, sandwiches. [2]
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